Yamashiro

Living in Southern California, it’s easy to lose sight of the thing called Hollywood—for those in the know, it’s not a place, its a street, not a pretty street either. Film studios are in fact, spread out across the area, only one in actual Hollywood—”and yet, the notion remains—”the idea of Hollywood, the history of a town, like any town, that became larger than its reality through shear imagination and luck. Welcome to Hollywood! The landmarks are many: the Sign, the Chinese Theater, The Walk of Fame, The Griffith Observatory, The shapely Hollywood Bowl. There are even some iconic restaurants, Musso & Frank Grill, Pinks, The Frolic Room and of course, Yamashiro. Perched on a hilltop in Hollywood, Yamashiro is a remnant of another time, yet vital to the survival of that idea we call Hollywood. Built in 1911, it has been featured in many Hollywood films and Huell Howser paid a visit in 2001. It has its stories, most notably, the ghost of a weeping woman, who haunts the bridal room and whose silhouette has reportedly been seen in the upstairs windows. In 1955, director and producer Fayette Thomas Moore committed suicide in his car outside the restaurant, and if that’s not enough, the ashes of previous owner Thomas O. Glover and his wife are buried in the inner courtyard. It should also be noted that Bonanza actor Pernell Roberts actually owned the property turning it into apartments in the 50s. It is a large area, and derives its names from a Japanese word that in this case means “mountain castle”. There are layers: a large golden Buddha (600 years old), a pool, a terrace, rounding walks with a stunning vistas are to be found and enjoyed here. This is quite unlike any place in Hollywood. It is a restaurant, a restaurant in the time of social distancing, a restaurant lucky enough to have always had outdoor dining, and is currently thriving. It has changed hands more often than a manicurist at rush hour, but its essence has remained. In August 2012, the Yamashiro Historic District was added to the National Register of Historic Places. According to the National Park Service, the Yamashiro Historic District includes “nine contributing buildings, sites, and structures on the estate property.” All good news.

So it was on a warm, late August night, the trip up the hill, past the the Magic Castle, the other side of the famed Art Deco complex, High Tower, we find ourselves at Yamashiro. It is near sundown, dusk, and the lights of the city emerge like lights on water, shimmering in the twilight. You can walk though the gardens of the restaurant, visit the very large, golden Lucky Buddha. We are admonished to not sit on Buddha, but he may receive our coin and wishes. People dining create an arc southern arc of the restaurant; it is a romantic hotspot for couples. We are seated in the garden area which has been used in many a Hollywood film, notably Memoirs of a Geisha. When asked about celebrities, we were told that Jennifer Lopez frequents as do a host of other celebrities who enjoy a rare, private dining experience in a romantic setting.

The drinks at Yamashiro are unique. One can experience Double Happiness, which is a drink composed of Tequila, Mezcal, pineapple, Rhubarb syrup, Lime, absinthe bitters. Exotic? Yes, Appetizers served run an interesting gamut of Sushi pizza and mango pureed Crab Cakes. Yamashiro recently welcomed a new executive chef, Valerri.  She welcomes us with a custom platter featuring ALL of the appetizers with SoCal spelled out—the menu is a curious fusion of foods and one senses it is Wagyu cheeseburger that is luring in the young. Coupled with a seating in the immaculately social distanced Zen Garden, we are served essentially everything from the kitchen. You know you’re in Hollywood as the occasional helicopter flies over. Everything is a complement to the previous serving. The sun has dipped into the West, the dark skies above Hollywood reveal a few stars—we are thankful for places like Yamashiro remaining to remind us of the legacy of a place, a place called Hollywood.